There are numerous fly-fishing accessories, some necessary and others not, depending
upon the type of fly-fishing you are doing. Here are some pointers that may be helpful.

Fly Patch:  
A totally optional feature is the fly patch for your hat, shirt, jacket or vest. Some love them
and others despise them.

Retractor:
An accessory we do recommend is the retractor. They make it quick and convenient to
access many accessories such as a release tool.

Release Tool:  
A release tool will make taking the hook out of a fish much easier on both you and the
fish.

Measuring Tape:
If you plan on bragging about your catch of the day, or if you want to keep a fish that is
for sure, within the regulations for the area you are fishing, then a measuring tape of
some type is useful.

Thermometer:  
At times, a thermometer can be helpful in determining whether or not the water is too hot
or cold for certain species of fish. Armed with the right knowledge, it could prompt you to
look for warmer or colder water.

Magnifying Glasses:  
Those of you who are somewhat handicapped in your ability to see ultra small item well at
close distances, especially in low light conditions, may find magnifying glasses very
helpful.

Midge Threader:  
For those of you who have trouble tying on tiny flies such as midges with like a size 28
hook, for example, there are “threaders” that make it easy to thread very small flies on
those fine tippets.

Rod Bags:
Rod bags, usually those made of soft cloth, protect your rods by
utilizing compartments that keep the rod sections separated.

Rod Tubes:  
A plastic, aluminum or other type rod tube like this one will protect your rods from the
rigors of travel and hazards of storage.

Lights:  
Clip on lights lets you tie on flies in low light or while night fishing. Under the right
circumstances, this often over looked accessory can be a very valuable one.

Wading Staff:
The wading staff is a very handy item to have in water with varying bottom conditions
and/or swift water conditions. Although it is a great wading aid for youngsters past forty, it
isn’t just for the older generations. It can come in handy for anyone wading under less
than desirable conditions. The best models are collapsible so they can be easily carried
around until needed.

Tippet Dispenser:  
Tippet dispensers make it convenient for you to disperse various size tippet materials
without having to search through pockets or boxes for the particular size you need.   

Copyright James Marsh 2013

When you are wading out in the middle of a stream or you are in a tube float, a fly fishing
vest is a must. Vest have been used as far back as fly fishing has been documented. It’s
a highly recognized part of a traditional fly fishers outfit.

Fly-fishing wading and tubing vest usually have several pockets permitting you to carry
the many small items sometimes needed when it would otherwise be quite inconvenient to
return to shore. Most models have exterior pockets and some are zipper closed pockets.
Some have so many pockets you may have a difficult time remembering what you have in
them.

Some models have interior pockets for that come in handy for your sunglasses and tippet
materials. If that is not enough pockets for you, there are vest available with even more
pockets as well as numerous accessories that secure other items to the vest.

You want to make sure a new vest will carry the size of fly boxes you have. It’s a good
idea to make a list of what you want to carry and insure the fly vest you choose will carry
the items.

The material used to make the vest can be an important consideration. If you use the
vest during the hot summer months, you probably will want to choose on with plenty of
ventilation. Will the vest give or stretch any? That may be a desirable factor with you. You
want to make sure it is comfortable to wear and fits you well.

One important consideration is how well the vest distributes the load it carries. This is
especially true for people with neck and spine problems. Even though you don’t think of a
vest being heavy, the added weight puts some stress on your neck and shoulders.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Fly Fishing Wading Boots

I’ve noticed that youngsters seem to enjoy wading as much as fly fishing. Getting into a
fast flowing stream with water flowing around your feet and legs is a wonderful experience
for most guys and quite different from most anything else you experience fishing…..that
is, until you slip and fall in. There not anything wonderful about that. It’s a fact anglers
drown wading and one reason that occurs is the anglers feet slip on the bottom and they
go down. This is where a good pair of wading boots comes in. They will help provide
comfortable, solid footing. The first and foremost consideration in acquiring a good pair
of wading boots is traction.

Felt soles are the best type of soles on wading shoes to have good traction on slick or
algae covered streambeds. You also have the option of adding spikes to many models of
felt soled boots. Wading boots should be extremely durable, dry quickly and resist
mildew. They should protect your feet from sharp rocks and sticks and other underwater
hazards. Wading boots are subject to more abuse than any other fly fishing item. We
suggest high quality leather upper sections but you will also find some of the new
synthetic materials is lighter, absorbs less water and also does a good job. The boots
should be well reinforced with extra heavy stitching. They should have solid toe and heel
support. Extra thick soles are better.

One thing that isn’t acceptable with wading boots is having to walk around with extra
water in your boots. This isn’t pleasant and it can also be tiring. The synthetic leather
upper type of wading boots absorb less water and can offer an advantage in this respect.
The boots should also be capable of draining fast to help get rid of the water.  Boots with
mesh type construction built into the sides help accomplish this. By the way, remember
that if you fish cold water, and most trout streams have cold water, you may need an
extra layer of socks. Be sure you have taken this into consideration when selecting a size
to fit. A thin liner sock will also assist in taking care of extra moisture.

Depending upon the particular water you are wading, it may be advisable to use gravel
guards. They provide protection for your waders by keeping out sand and gravel that can
get down in your shoes and cause damage.

As most anglers know, there has been much recent concern over the spread of invasive
aquatic species. Wading boot manufacturers made an attempt to help solve this problem
by creating different types of soles for wading boots. Efforts have also been made to
reduce the amount of stitching and to reduce the pockets and other places that could
harbor invasive species.

Over the years, wading boots used synthetic nylon felt soles to help provide traction. This
was the standard material for wading boot soles. It was discovered that the felt is partially
responsible for the spread of invasive micro-organisms from one waterway to another. As
a result many countries and some states of the U. S., legislated regulations against the
use of felt on the soles for wading boots. Various types of sticky type rubber compounds
was used by various wading boot manufacturers to replace felt. This resulted in another
big problem. The new rubber type of soles failed in almost every respects to compare
with felt when it came to traction. To make it short and simple, anglers began to slip and
fall much easier than they did previously with felt wading soles. It also became very
obvious that this one change would have little effect in reducing the spread of invasive
aquatic species.

At one point, carbide tipped studs were thought to be the solution to the problem with the
rubber soles. In some respects studs helped to eliminate the problesm with rubber soles
but in our opinion, the overall rubber sole wading boot construction, studs or no studs,
failed miserably.

The single biggest push for non-felt sole wading boots came from the manufacturers
themselves. They did it under the name of conservation but many wonder, including us,
just how much financial gain from having new product was a factor. For two or three
years the manufacturers pushed the ban of felt soles, and attempted to justify it with all
types of what we consider mostly bogus justification. The ban on felt soles failed to the
point that in the year 2011, the nations largest wading boot manufacturer Simms
changed their plans and convictions and again begin manufacturing felt sole wading
boots.

The most important thing anglers can do to help with the spread of invasive aquatic
species is to learn how to thoroughly clean their gear.

Copyright James Marsh 2012

Fly fishing waders should serve several purposes. One is to keep your warm in cool
water. Another is to keep you cool in warm water. Most importantly, they should keep you
dry.

Breathable Waders:
For one to remain comfortable, waders should breathe and disperse the moisture that
comes from perspiration, even when underwater. Pure rubber or neoprene waders keep
the water out but are not breathable. Being waterproof isn’t enough to keep you
comfortable when wading.

Gore-Tex, breathable membrane waders are in our opinion, a very good choice. There
are other types of breathable materials used successfully for waders. Being active
causes one to loose water from their body. This water makes most insulation material
damp. Your waders should get rid of the moisture or otherwise, one will become chilled.
Being dry means being comfortable. Waders should perform in getting rid of the bodies
moisture irrespective of whether it’s 90 degrees or 30 degrees.

Wader Toughness:
Waders should be made to resist abrasion. Anyone wading is going to experience some
falls, slips, thorns on bushes and many other things that can create leaks. They should
be made to withstand tough conditions. Multi-layered waders provide better abrasion
resistance. The extra layers help keep a balance between breathing to stay dry and
durability.

Gravel guards:
Gravel-guards help keep small pebbles and sand out of your boots. Some come built-in
with the waders. Gravel guards can also be purchased separately to work with any
waders.

Wading Belt:
A wading belt is an absolute must. It can be built-in but if not, you should make absolutely
sure your wearing a separate one, anytime and anywhere your wading. If you slip and fall
in without one tight around your waist, your waders quickly fill with water adding a lot of
weight. The added weight will make it far more difficult to get back up out of the water and
especially if your wading faster currents. A wading belt can save your life.

Wader Repairs:  
Waders that are used will develop leaks. Some may develop small tears. There are fix-it
repair kits for waders. Many models include these repair kits. Most of the time these
repair kits will fix the small problems that occur.  

Wader Warranty:
Select companies that provide a good, comprehensive warranty. The best manufacturers
always stand behind the products they manufacturer and they guarantee quality with a
good warranty.

Fly Boxes:
Fly boxes range from basic, simple clear plastic boxes to deluxe models sized to carry
flies as small as midges up flies as large as streamers. While you are wading, you may
want a compact box that will fit in your shirt or vest pocket. Our Perfect Fly boxes are
waterproof and can dry flies or wet flies and nymphs without your having to worry about
the flies rusting.

Our Perfect Fly boxes has open micro-slit foam (models 101 & 201) that allows extra
room between the foam for flies with vertically wound hackle. This style is better for
smaller flies with hook sizes from 10 to 20.

Our Perfect Fly triangle micro-slit foam (model 102) allows more room for the barbs of
larger hooks. This style is better for larger hook sizes from 4 to 16.

Home and Boat Storage Fly Boxes:
At home or in the boat you may prefer a larger box for storing  flies. There are many
types of fly boxes made for boat storage including specialized models made for various
saltwater applications.

Reel Cases and Bags:
To carry everything, there are multi-pocket fly reel cases that are excellent for storing
spare tools, floatants and line cleaners. They also have pockets that are great for storing
leaders, pliers, thermometers, spare line and even maps.

Fly Rod and Reel Bags:
There are many types of bags made specifically for fly reels. Some fly  reel
manufacturers provide a bag for their reels and others don’t. There are special bags
made for carrying fly rods in your vehicle or on an airplane. There are combination rod
and reel bags that hold fly reels and rods assembled.

General Purpose Carry All Bags:
I prefer calling these type bags duffel bags. Anyone that has ever spent time in military
service knows the value of a duffel bag. There are special models made for fly anglers
but there’s little difference in them and the common duffel bag. For fishing, you may
prefer a waterproof carry all bag.

Boat Bags:
There are special bags made for fly anglers fishing from boats, both saltwater skiffs and
flats boats and various types of drift boats. They should be waterproof, have plenty of
storage compartments.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

The single most important consideration in choosing a fly reel is its line capacity. The
capacity of the reel is usually indicated on the enclosed literature as well as the box that
the reel comes in.

Generally, one of three or four sizes of reels offered by a manufacturer will work for just
about any freshwater fishing situation. This makes choosing the size of the reel a
relatively simple chore provided you know the line size you are using, and you by all
means should.

Next in the order of importance is the drag. If you plan on catching only smaller fish
species such as panfish, for example, then the click type drag with a palming spool is
adequate. Medium size fish, say from three to eight pounds, demand a more efficient disc
type drag system. The drag efficiency and durability is even more important when you
are fighting larger, harder fighting species.

Make certain that the retrieve, left or right-handed, fits your requirements although most
all of them are reversible.  

Most manufacturers make it relatively easily to change spools on their reels. This allows
you to use different types of lines without changing reels.

Of course, the weight of the reel is another very important factor. Given that the spool
capacity, strength and drag system are adequate, the lighter the weight of the reel the
better. There’s little sense in purchasing a fly rod that’s light as a feather and worrying
about half ounces if your going to use a heavy fly reel on it.

Again, machined finished aluminum generally offers greater smoothness of operation but
is usually more expensive. Most anglers would agree that the added cost is well worth it,
however.

The final decision comes down to pleasure. After all, most of us think pleasure is what fly
fishing is all about. If the fly reel is a pleasure to fish, most likely that’s enough to satisfy
the most discriminating angler.

Copyright James Marsh 2012

Fly Fishing Gear – Fly Reels

Fly Reel Drags:
If you are catching big fish, the drag quickly becomes the single most important part of
the fly reel. The drag should be as smooth and even as possible. It should serve to tire
the fish and at the same time prevent the tippet from breaking.

Disc drags have pads that apply pressure to the reel spool. They are by far the best type
drags to have. Wider range drag adjustments are possible with the disc drag because
the drag can be adjusted in smaller or finer increments than with most other types of
drags. Single click type drag systems do not handle these requirements well.

Palm type drags allow you to apply pressure to the spool of the reel, thereby increasing
the tension applied to the line during the fight of a fish. Single click-pawl type drags, even
those on reels equipped with palming spools, are adequate for smaller fish caught on
medium to heavy tippets, but larger fish or even smaller fish taken on ultra light tippets,
demand a better, more reliable drag system.

Fly Reel Materials:  

Most fly reels are made from either aluminum or graphite. Graphite reels are usually the
most economical and are lightweight and corrosion proof. Aluminum reels can be made
from cast aluminum or machined aluminum.

Machine finishing gives fly reels tight tolerances and superior smoothness and are more
desirable than reels made from stamped aluminum parts. Anodized finishes are available
on some reels that help protect the reel against harsh conditions. The finish of the
aluminum reel should not scratch or nick easily. Some reels have ball bearings, usually
made of stainless steel, which can be a factor in making the reel operate smoothly.

Although there are several types of disc drag systems and most of them, use drag
washers that are made from cork. Cork is simple, efficient and inexpensive. Plastics and
composites, such as Teflon, are also used for the drag washers.

In many anglers mind’s, the fly reel should be a thing of beauty. There are many different
designs that give one the opportunity to choose a reel that best suits them. It gets down
to style in the eyes of many anglers. They prefer certain finishes not only for durability
but also for its beauty.

Copyright James Marsh 2012

Fly Reels Purpose:
The main purpose of the fly reel is to retrieve and store the fly line and backing. Except
for small fish, which can be fought by retrieving the line by hand, the reel’s drag serves
the most important function.

Storing the fly line and backing and retrieving the line and, sometimes fish, requires a
reel that should be as light, weight and simple as possible. As you should already know,
unlike most other reels, it serves no purpose during the cast.  

Types of Fly Reels:

The single action fly reel turns the spool one time with each turn of the handle. This
means that the size or diameter of the reel’s spool determines how much line is retrieved
per turn of the spool.

Large arbor reels take up line faster, reduce the amount of line memory and is a factor
in the efficiency of the drag. Some reels are called “large arbor” reels when the diameter
of the spool is increased little beyond that of the standard fly reel spool. Only the width of
the spool is increased. These reels may hold more line and backing, but the amount of
line retrieved per turn of the reel handle is only affected by the increase in spool
diameter.

In addition to the standard single action fly reel, there are “multi-action” reels that are
capable of retrieving more than one spool of line per turn of the handle. This feature is
unnecessary, however, except where they may be considered a feasible option for
fighting very large fast moving fish.

Most fly reel have interchangeable spools, whereas they can easily be converted from
right to left hand retrieves or vica versa, Most right handed anglers, for example, choose
to retrieve line with their left hand and cast with their right, although this is strictly a
personal choice.  

Most fly reels have optional spare spools that can be filled with other types of fly line.
This makes it economical and convenient to change spools without either having to swap
the reel or to change to another outfit in order to fish a different type of line.  

Some fly reels have “clickers” that somewhat add to the spool tension or drag which
make a clicking noise when line is being stripped from the reel. This is a totally optional
thing. Some anglers prefer the clicking sound of a fish taking drag and others do not like
it. Most of these type clickers can be turned on and off, of course.

Most freshwater fly reels are direct drive reels, that is when the line goes out, the spool
and the crank handle rotate together. There are “anti-reverse” reels that do not directly
connect the handle and the spool. As line is stripped from the spool, the reel handle does
not turn. It is only engaged when you are retrieving line. The advantage is that less parts
move when drag is being taken or line stripped from the spool and you may not crush a
knuckle by the fast turning handle. Unless you are catching extremely large fast fish, this
feature, in our opinion, is not worth the inconvenience of the extra weight the additional
parts add. Even so, some anglers prefer the direct drive reel.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

When you first pick up a Perfect Fly rod  we think you will really be pleased with what
we think is one of the most important aspects of a fly rod. – its feel.


The Perfect Fly Rod Feel
It doesn’t matter how you try to describe a fly rod, it’s the “feel” of the fly rod that most
anglers like or dislike. We think our”Perfect Fly” rods will have a perfect feeling to you if you
give one an opportunity to perform for you.

If you have been using a slow flexing fly rod for a long time, the first time you pick it up and
shake a Perfect Fly rod, it will feel very light to you for sure, but at first, it may feel a little on
the stiff side to you. That feeling won’t last long. Once you have cast the rod a few times, it
will begin to feel great.

If you’ve been casting a medium or medium fast action fly rod, its flex will probably feel close
to the same. It will probably just appear lighter due to it very high graphite modulus and its
overall light weight.

None of our fly rods are “stiff” fast action rods that feels like a pool cue stick. They flex well
but mostly in the upper part of the rod. That’s what gives the rods their incredible line speed,
tight loops and accuracy.  You don’t want to try to force the rod to do anything. You want to
let the rod do the work for you.

When you are making very short cast up close, you simply shorten the stroke. It will continue
to be easy to cast. You will also find it makes roll, reach and curve cast as well or better than
any rod you have used.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Copyright 2018 James Marsh

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A LIghter Fly Rod is Better – Are You Sure?

When all other things are equal, lighter fly rods are probably better. The big question
becomes whether or not everything else is equal.

When manufacturers reduce the weight of a fly rod, they either use material that is lighter in
weight, or they reduce the physical size of the material being used. In the first case, various
types of lighter weight materials have been used in an effort to reduce the weight. Some
manufacturers have gone to fiberglass handles, lighter guide material, and almost all of the
manufacturers have used higher modulus graphite. When it comes to reducing the physical
size of the components, manufacturers have cut down on the size of the handle, use cutout
sections of the rod seat inserts instead solid material, used smaller guides, and make many
other modifications to lower the weight of the rod.

During the last few years, higher and higher modulus graphite has been used to make the
rods more sensitive, lighter and more efficient. Generally, the higher the modulus of the
fibers, the lighter the blank is for any given stiffness; however, there’s a general trade off for
this that must be addressed in the manufacturing process. Higher modulus rods take less
abuse and are easier to break than the heavier rods. Higher modulus graphite has enabled
manufacturers to make lighter rods primarily because they can make the blanks with thinner
walls. The exact manufacturing process becomes very important. The thinner walls must be
made strong to withstand the rigors of normal use. Different resins, additives, and
manufacturing processes add strength and greatly affect the overall value of high modulus
rods.  

The modulus numbers can also be confusing and deceiving. Some manufacturers have
taken advantage of this with their marketing. Our “Superb Five” fly rod blanks are made from
high modulus graphite but it’s the process used to manufacturer the blank that makes them
light, strong and more importantly, provides their superb performance.

Another big question is just how much benefit does an angler really get from a fraction
of an ounce reduction in weight?

Some manufacturers have grossly overvalued the importance of very slight differences in the
weights of fly rods. It sounds like a big difference when a company claims it has reduced the
weight of its fly rods by one-forth. What’s the overall benefit of a fraction of an ounce in
weight reduction? If the rod is light enough, there’s very little benefit, if any. If the weight
reduction affects the performance or durability of the rod to any appreciable extent, the
disadvantages of the light weight are greater than the advantages. Because of this, we do
not intend to pay the lightweight marketing game that some of the manufacturers are playing.
Our fly rods are very light and within a fraction of an ounce of the lightest. Let’s look at the
overall benefit of a fraction of an ounce in the overall weight of the fly rod.

It’s nice to pick the rod up off the showroom floor without a fly reel on it and feel the very light
weight of a rod. Unfortunately, that isn’t the same feel your are going to get when your on the
stream and it’s completely rigged, ready to cast to a trout. Let’s look at what the real weight
tallies out to be.

5 Weight Fly Rod Weight: 3.13 ounces or .196 pounds
5 Weight Fly Reel Weight: 4.13 ounces or .258 pounds
Backing Line Weight:……………………………015 pounds
Fly Line Weight: 5 weight fly line………. …..060 pounds
Leader/Tippet Weight:…………………………..002
Fly Weight:………………………………………….N/A
Total Weight………………………………………..521 pounds or 8.34 ounces

These are dry weights. Water can easily add an ounce or two to the overall weight.

The question becomes, if the total weight of everything is only 8.34 ounces, what difference
does an eight of an ounce make? An ounce of weight would make very little difference. For
all practical purposes, an eight of an ounces doesn’t make any difference. If the minute
reduction in weight reduces the strength of the fly rod, is it worth it? So, if you are
buying a new fly rod to cut the weight down an eight of an ounce or even an ounce, you may
want to reconsider. Our Perfect Fly “Superb Five” is within a fraction of an ounce as
light as any fly rod of its size.

Copyright James Marsh 2013