Category: Fly Fishing Basics

GPS Receivers/Chart Plotters:
If you spot a big fish or discover a good fishing area in a remote location that you are
unfamiliar with, then you may want to store that location by marking it as a waypoint in the
memory of a portable GPS receiver. They are small, lightweight, affordable, and accurate
to within a few feet. You can always return to that same exact location from any other
location in the world at any time later.  

Radios:
If you are fishing with a partner, normally you will be some distance apart in order to stay
out of each, others way. Often, on small streams you may not be within sight of each
other and in some cases, even when you are in view of one another, you cannot hear
one another due to the sound of the water. Small, economical, family use, two-way radios
are very useful in communicating with each other and may even offer some safety
advantage.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Polarized sunglasses are just about a must for any fishing situation. They simply allow
you to see you line, leader and fly better in various lighting conditions than you can with
the necked eye.  They are also very helpful when it comes to being able to spot fish and
structure below the surface of the water.

If you use regular prescription glasses then you should consider prescription, polarized
sunglasses. If anything, you need to see better when you are fly fishing- certainly not
worse. In most all cases you must be able to read the water and in some cases, spot fish,
to be successful.

Polarized, sunglasses reduce the glare on the water’s surface making it much easier to
see everything including your fly. Don’t forget the UV protection advantages that you can
get from making the right choice. You should also be aware that different shades of
lenses are available for different lighting conditions and this can make a difference.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Strike indicators provide a quick, easy solution to catching fish on nymphs. They  
make it easier to detect strikes with submerged flies. They are in essence no
different than a float that bobbles or dives under the water when a fish takes the
nymph. Strike Indicators lets you present nymphs in a dead drift manner.

Often we head to our favorite stream anticipating a hatch and arrive to find nothing is
hatching. That’s the time you have to decide if your going to be a stubborn dry fly
only angler, or your going to fish nymphs. If you choose to fish nymphs, unless
nymph fishing is something you have had a lot of experience with, you will probably
want to use a strike indicator.

Some anglers consider using an indicator unethical. Some anglers fish nothing but
dry flies and others wouldn’t dare use a sinking line. Others will not add weight to
their flies. Different anglers have different ideas about what’s right or wrong and
good or bad. This will probably never change. The difference most anglers make is
usually determined by answering this one question. Had you rather catch trout or just
cast flies?  

A strike indicator is nothing more or less than something attached to the leader to let
you know when a fish has taken your submerged fly. This is all well and fine except
there are some things you should consider. Strike indicators can spook trout. The
question becomes, how many will you spook versus how many will you catch. If the
indicator increases your odds of success by letting you know what’s happening to
your nymph, most anglers would have a difficult time rejecting their use.

This “spooking” problem can be controlled to some extent. The distance you place
your fly from the indicator is a factor. Of course, this depends on the depth of the
water and the current. In determining the distance, you have to allow for the speed of
the current and the amount of weight added to help keep the fly down. It also
depends to some extend on how far from the fly the weight (usually split-shot) is
placed. The rule of thumb for average stream conditions (if there is such a thing) is
to place the strike indicator one and a half times the depth of the water.

The next thing that’s a factor is the type of indicator being used. There are many
types available. Bobber type strike indicators come in all shapes and sizes. There
are also yarn type strike indicators. You can even grease up the leader and tippet
and use it as a strike indicator.

Bobbers come in plastic, cork and foam. They come in all colors of the spectrum.
They come in all sizes. Large ones cast larger shadows and are easier for the trout
to see, yet they are easier for the angler to see. Small ones are difficult to see in
rough water. The larger ones may be more difficult to cast, especially in windy
conditions. There’s plenty of trade-offs to consider.

A big consideration is how easy is the strike indicator to take off the leader and
replace or to use the leader for another type of fishing. Some are so difficult to
change out they require you to replace the leader. Others are easy to remove and
can be done quickly and without damage to the leader.

All of these things affect the efficiency and benefit of strike indicators. There are no
set hard, fast rules. The best thing available for any angler using a strike indicator is
common sense.

Yes, we are biased. That’s why we prefer and use our “KISS Strike Indicators”. We
don’t just prefer them because we sell them. We think we have very good reasons
for preferring them.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Fly Floatants:
Generally speaking, most dry flies will tend to float high on the surface of the water for
only a given amount of time, depending upon the materials the fly is made from. At some
point it may begin to sink partially and sometimes, completely. Various types of  
“floatants”, some dry and some in liquid composition help prevent this.

Fly Line Dressings and Cleaners:
The dirtier you floating fly line gets, the more likely it will not float high on the surface of
the water. Both dirty sinking lines and floating lines are less likely to shoot through the
guides of your rod as good as they would if they were clean. Fly line cleaners and
dressings not only clean your floating line and helps prevent them from sinking after
repetitive use, they can make any type of line easier to cast.

Descent Leader Sink:  
There are dressings designed to do just the opposite thing with your leader-that is help
them sink. This may be helpful in fishing wet flies and even may come in handy in
concealing the presence of your leader. Slightly sinking the leader when you are fishing
dry flies in calm water may help reduce the flash as well as the shadow the leader may
cast on the bottom. This helps to conceal the presence of the leader.’

Lead Weights (Split Shot):
There are removable type lead split shots as well as the type that’s difficult to remove.
Both types can damage a tippet if they are applied to tightly. This is more of a problem
with fine tippets than heavy tippets but clinching lead split-shot on any nylon mono tippet
or leader material will damage to some extent. It will do the same thing with flourocarbon
tippet.

Most anglers prefer a variety of sizes of split-shot in one container rather than several
boxes of different sizes of split-shot but the choice is yours. Some anglers tend to just
keep adding more of the same size split shot but in most fly fishing situations, having a
variety of sizes is a plus.

Non-toxic weights:
There are some areas and streams that require the use of non-toxic weights. In other
words, lead weights are not permitted. There are several types of non-toxic weights on
the market. Some are applied similar to the way you apply lead split-shot and others are
putty like substances that you wad up on the tippet.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

There are numerous fly-fishing accessories, some necessary and others not, depending
upon the type of fly-fishing you are doing. Here are some pointers that may be helpful.

Fly Patch:  
A totally optional feature is the fly patch for your hat, shirt, jacket or vest. Some love them
and others despise them.

Retractor:
An accessory we do recommend is the retractor. They make it quick and convenient to
access many accessories such as a release tool.

Release Tool:  
A release tool will make taking the hook out of a fish much easier on both you and the
fish.

Measuring Tape:
If you plan on bragging about your catch of the day, or if you want to keep a fish that is
for sure, within the regulations for the area you are fishing, then a measuring tape of
some type is useful.

Thermometer:  
At times, a thermometer can be helpful in determining whether or not the water is too hot
or cold for certain species of fish. Armed with the right knowledge, it could prompt you to
look for warmer or colder water.

Magnifying Glasses:  
Those of you who are somewhat handicapped in your ability to see ultra small item well at
close distances, especially in low light conditions, may find magnifying glasses very
helpful.

Midge Threader:  
For those of you who have trouble tying on tiny flies such as midges with like a size 28
hook, for example, there are “threaders” that make it easy to thread very small flies on
those fine tippets.

Rod Bags:
Rod bags, usually those made of soft cloth, protect your rods by
utilizing compartments that keep the rod sections separated.

Rod Tubes:  
A plastic, aluminum or other type rod tube like this one will protect your rods from the
rigors of travel and hazards of storage.

Lights:  
Clip on lights lets you tie on flies in low light or while night fishing. Under the right
circumstances, this often over looked accessory can be a very valuable one.

Wading Staff:
The wading staff is a very handy item to have in water with varying bottom conditions
and/or swift water conditions. Although it is a great wading aid for youngsters past forty, it
isn’t just for the older generations. It can come in handy for anyone wading under less
than desirable conditions. The best models are collapsible so they can be easily carried
around until needed.

Tippet Dispenser:  
Tippet dispensers make it convenient for you to disperse various size tippet materials
without having to search through pockets or boxes for the particular size you need.   

Copyright James Marsh 2013

When you are wading out in the middle of a stream or you are in a tube float, a fly fishing
vest is a must. Vest have been used as far back as fly fishing has been documented. It’s
a highly recognized part of a traditional fly fishers outfit.

Fly-fishing wading and tubing vest usually have several pockets permitting you to carry
the many small items sometimes needed when it would otherwise be quite inconvenient to
return to shore. Most models have exterior pockets and some are zipper closed pockets.
Some have so many pockets you may have a difficult time remembering what you have in
them.

Some models have interior pockets for that come in handy for your sunglasses and tippet
materials. If that is not enough pockets for you, there are vest available with even more
pockets as well as numerous accessories that secure other items to the vest.

You want to make sure a new vest will carry the size of fly boxes you have. It’s a good
idea to make a list of what you want to carry and insure the fly vest you choose will carry
the items.

The material used to make the vest can be an important consideration. If you use the
vest during the hot summer months, you probably will want to choose on with plenty of
ventilation. Will the vest give or stretch any? That may be a desirable factor with you. You
want to make sure it is comfortable to wear and fits you well.

One important consideration is how well the vest distributes the load it carries. This is
especially true for people with neck and spine problems. Even though you don’t think of a
vest being heavy, the added weight puts some stress on your neck and shoulders.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

Fly Fishing Wading Boots

I’ve noticed that youngsters seem to enjoy wading as much as fly fishing. Getting into a
fast flowing stream with water flowing around your feet and legs is a wonderful experience
for most guys and quite different from most anything else you experience fishing…..that
is, until you slip and fall in. There not anything wonderful about that. It’s a fact anglers
drown wading and one reason that occurs is the anglers feet slip on the bottom and they
go down. This is where a good pair of wading boots comes in. They will help provide
comfortable, solid footing. The first and foremost consideration in acquiring a good pair
of wading boots is traction.

Felt soles are the best type of soles on wading shoes to have good traction on slick or
algae covered streambeds. You also have the option of adding spikes to many models of
felt soled boots. Wading boots should be extremely durable, dry quickly and resist
mildew. They should protect your feet from sharp rocks and sticks and other underwater
hazards. Wading boots are subject to more abuse than any other fly fishing item. We
suggest high quality leather upper sections but you will also find some of the new
synthetic materials is lighter, absorbs less water and also does a good job. The boots
should be well reinforced with extra heavy stitching. They should have solid toe and heel
support. Extra thick soles are better.

One thing that isn’t acceptable with wading boots is having to walk around with extra
water in your boots. This isn’t pleasant and it can also be tiring. The synthetic leather
upper type of wading boots absorb less water and can offer an advantage in this respect.
The boots should also be capable of draining fast to help get rid of the water.  Boots with
mesh type construction built into the sides help accomplish this. By the way, remember
that if you fish cold water, and most trout streams have cold water, you may need an
extra layer of socks. Be sure you have taken this into consideration when selecting a size
to fit. A thin liner sock will also assist in taking care of extra moisture.

Depending upon the particular water you are wading, it may be advisable to use gravel
guards. They provide protection for your waders by keeping out sand and gravel that can
get down in your shoes and cause damage.

As most anglers know, there has been much recent concern over the spread of invasive
aquatic species. Wading boot manufacturers made an attempt to help solve this problem
by creating different types of soles for wading boots. Efforts have also been made to
reduce the amount of stitching and to reduce the pockets and other places that could
harbor invasive species.

Over the years, wading boots used synthetic nylon felt soles to help provide traction. This
was the standard material for wading boot soles. It was discovered that the felt is partially
responsible for the spread of invasive micro-organisms from one waterway to another. As
a result many countries and some states of the U. S., legislated regulations against the
use of felt on the soles for wading boots. Various types of sticky type rubber compounds
was used by various wading boot manufacturers to replace felt. This resulted in another
big problem. The new rubber type of soles failed in almost every respects to compare
with felt when it came to traction. To make it short and simple, anglers began to slip and
fall much easier than they did previously with felt wading soles. It also became very
obvious that this one change would have little effect in reducing the spread of invasive
aquatic species.

At one point, carbide tipped studs were thought to be the solution to the problem with the
rubber soles. In some respects studs helped to eliminate the problesm with rubber soles
but in our opinion, the overall rubber sole wading boot construction, studs or no studs,
failed miserably.

The single biggest push for non-felt sole wading boots came from the manufacturers
themselves. They did it under the name of conservation but many wonder, including us,
just how much financial gain from having new product was a factor. For two or three
years the manufacturers pushed the ban of felt soles, and attempted to justify it with all
types of what we consider mostly bogus justification. The ban on felt soles failed to the
point that in the year 2011, the nations largest wading boot manufacturer Simms
changed their plans and convictions and again begin manufacturing felt sole wading
boots.

The most important thing anglers can do to help with the spread of invasive aquatic
species is to learn how to thoroughly clean their gear.

Copyright James Marsh 2012

Fly fishing waders should serve several purposes. One is to keep your warm in cool
water. Another is to keep you cool in warm water. Most importantly, they should keep you
dry.

Breathable Waders:
For one to remain comfortable, waders should breathe and disperse the moisture that
comes from perspiration, even when underwater. Pure rubber or neoprene waders keep
the water out but are not breathable. Being waterproof isn’t enough to keep you
comfortable when wading.

Gore-Tex, breathable membrane waders are in our opinion, a very good choice. There
are other types of breathable materials used successfully for waders. Being active
causes one to loose water from their body. This water makes most insulation material
damp. Your waders should get rid of the moisture or otherwise, one will become chilled.
Being dry means being comfortable. Waders should perform in getting rid of the bodies
moisture irrespective of whether it’s 90 degrees or 30 degrees.

Wader Toughness:
Waders should be made to resist abrasion. Anyone wading is going to experience some
falls, slips, thorns on bushes and many other things that can create leaks. They should
be made to withstand tough conditions. Multi-layered waders provide better abrasion
resistance. The extra layers help keep a balance between breathing to stay dry and
durability.

Gravel guards:
Gravel-guards help keep small pebbles and sand out of your boots. Some come built-in
with the waders. Gravel guards can also be purchased separately to work with any
waders.

Wading Belt:
A wading belt is an absolute must. It can be built-in but if not, you should make absolutely
sure your wearing a separate one, anytime and anywhere your wading. If you slip and fall
in without one tight around your waist, your waders quickly fill with water adding a lot of
weight. The added weight will make it far more difficult to get back up out of the water and
especially if your wading faster currents. A wading belt can save your life.

Wader Repairs:  
Waders that are used will develop leaks. Some may develop small tears. There are fix-it
repair kits for waders. Many models include these repair kits. Most of the time these
repair kits will fix the small problems that occur.  

Wader Warranty:
Select companies that provide a good, comprehensive warranty. The best manufacturers
always stand behind the products they manufacturer and they guarantee quality with a
good warranty.

Fly Boxes:
Fly boxes range from basic, simple clear plastic boxes to deluxe models sized to carry
flies as small as midges up flies as large as streamers. While you are wading, you may
want a compact box that will fit in your shirt or vest pocket. Our Perfect Fly boxes are
waterproof and can dry flies or wet flies and nymphs without your having to worry about
the flies rusting.

Our Perfect Fly boxes has open micro-slit foam (models 101 & 201) that allows extra
room between the foam for flies with vertically wound hackle. This style is better for
smaller flies with hook sizes from 10 to 20.

Our Perfect Fly triangle micro-slit foam (model 102) allows more room for the barbs of
larger hooks. This style is better for larger hook sizes from 4 to 16.

Home and Boat Storage Fly Boxes:
At home or in the boat you may prefer a larger box for storing  flies. There are many
types of fly boxes made for boat storage including specialized models made for various
saltwater applications.

Reel Cases and Bags:
To carry everything, there are multi-pocket fly reel cases that are excellent for storing
spare tools, floatants and line cleaners. They also have pockets that are great for storing
leaders, pliers, thermometers, spare line and even maps.

Fly Rod and Reel Bags:
There are many types of bags made specifically for fly reels. Some fly  reel
manufacturers provide a bag for their reels and others don’t. There are special bags
made for carrying fly rods in your vehicle or on an airplane. There are combination rod
and reel bags that hold fly reels and rods assembled.

General Purpose Carry All Bags:
I prefer calling these type bags duffel bags. Anyone that has ever spent time in military
service knows the value of a duffel bag. There are special models made for fly anglers
but there’s little difference in them and the common duffel bag. For fishing, you may
prefer a waterproof carry all bag.

Boat Bags:
There are special bags made for fly anglers fishing from boats, both saltwater skiffs and
flats boats and various types of drift boats. They should be waterproof, have plenty of
storage compartments.

Copyright James Marsh 2013

The single most important consideration in choosing a fly reel is its line capacity. The
capacity of the reel is usually indicated on the enclosed literature as well as the box that
the reel comes in.

Generally, one of three or four sizes of reels offered by a manufacturer will work for just
about any freshwater fishing situation. This makes choosing the size of the reel a
relatively simple chore provided you know the line size you are using, and you by all
means should.

Next in the order of importance is the drag. If you plan on catching only smaller fish
species such as panfish, for example, then the click type drag with a palming spool is
adequate. Medium size fish, say from three to eight pounds, demand a more efficient disc
type drag system. The drag efficiency and durability is even more important when you
are fighting larger, harder fighting species.

Make certain that the retrieve, left or right-handed, fits your requirements although most
all of them are reversible.  

Most manufacturers make it relatively easily to change spools on their reels. This allows
you to use different types of lines without changing reels.

Of course, the weight of the reel is another very important factor. Given that the spool
capacity, strength and drag system are adequate, the lighter the weight of the reel the
better. There’s little sense in purchasing a fly rod that’s light as a feather and worrying
about half ounces if your going to use a heavy fly reel on it.

Again, machined finished aluminum generally offers greater smoothness of operation but
is usually more expensive. Most anglers would agree that the added cost is well worth it,
however.

The final decision comes down to pleasure. After all, most of us think pleasure is what fly
fishing is all about. If the fly reel is a pleasure to fish, most likely that’s enough to satisfy
the most discriminating angler.

Copyright James Marsh 2012